Best Makeup and Hairstyling: Ranking Every Oscar Nominee
Written by Andreas Babiolakis
Last year’s winner: Bombshell.
I usually dread this category, because it’s an incentive for the Academy Awards to nominate some garbage films. Jackass Presents: Bad Grandpa. The Wolfman. Hell, Suicide Squad won, and maybe it deserved to, but now it’ll be known as an Oscar winner until the end of time. These all happened when the category was oddly limited to three nominees only, so the open floodgates of having five selections only made me worry more. Well, we’re in year two of this expansion, and things are actually looking pretty good. Still, there are not so great works being recognized (well, one, really), but every film featured deserves to be. Here are your nominees.
Biggest Snub: Birds of Prey
Look, if Suicide Squad is going to win, I don’t see why Birds of Prey couldn’t have been given a shout out as well. Okay, so there is less emphasis on the special effects makeup in this film, but the creative character designs all incorporate some fantastic work in the cosmetic department. Maybe Birds of Prey didn’t deserve to win, but I was actually surprised it didn’t make the final five; at least it made the short list.
5. Hillbilly Elegy
Eryn Krueger Mekash, Mattew Mungle & Patricia Dehaney
Oh, I hate Hillbilly Elegy (indeed, I do), but that’s not why it is last here. Its makeup work is quite great, and the hairstyling matches it nicely. If anything, the achievements here are really good, and Hillbilly Elegy could easily win usually. However, it is up against some really creative, difficult competition this year, and it has period pieces, fantasy designs, and the extra oomph of other films going against it. Still, Hillbilly Elegy is really good at these finishing touches of its characters, and I have no problem with it being nominated here (hell, if Glenn Close meant the film would get a nomination, then I don’t see why an additional nod hurts).
4. Mank
Gigi Williams, Kimberley Spiteri & Colleen LaBaff
Again, Mank is really good at what it pulls off here, whether it’s aging its titular character when needed, or being very accurate in its portrayal of the upper class members of the film industry of the Golden Age. There are also more than enough special occasions in the film that participants can get fancy in how they present themselves, so that means some fitting makeup, and even nicer hairdos. The makeup and hair in Mank is so good that it feels genuine. But, it’s that kind of a year, and it’s only fourth in my ranking. What else can beat this?
3. Emma.
Marese Langan, Laura Allen & Claudia Stolze
I feel like Emma. does exactly what Mank does, but more often and even better. The makeup is a little more creative, given the film’s aesthetic leeway (Mank is trying to replicate an era, while Emma. slightly deviates from it in a cinematic way). So, the makeup is good, but Emma. is here because of its hair. My goodness, the hair in Emma.. What a fantastic array of designs, especially with all of the gatherings that allow for an entire portfolio of beautiful concepts to be on display. When it comes to standard makeup and hairstyling nominees, Emma. is easily the best. However, we still have two films to go. This really is a strong year in this category.
2. Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom
Sergio Lopez-Rivera, Mia Neal & Jamika Wilson
So, Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom does everything that the previous period pieces pull off, but with some extra details that give it the edge. For instance, when the titular Ma Rainey sweats and her makeup smudges; Ma Rainey’s character design alone; actually, Ma Rainey alone is why the film can win an Oscar. Everyone else is designed really well, but so much work and magic goes into this one character, that she stands out (naturally, as this is her show through and through) and is unforgettable in how she is made.
1. Pinocchio
Mark Coulier, Dalia Colli & Francesco Pegoretti
Okay, for me, no film comes close to what Pinocchio achieves in this category. In my review, I discuss how some of the character designs aren’t the best, but I still appreciate the work put into them. Then, there are the creations that do work, and I don’t even know where to begin with them. Pinocchio himself actually feels like a living puppet made of wood, and you just know that CGI would have ruined the illusion. There are so many creatures as well, and they range from disturbing and creepy to breathtaking; the ape above is an instance of the latter, and I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw it. There are so many designs that I love, and their execution is actually mind boggling. Pinocchio deserves to be here, and I wish it had more of a shot to win this thing.
Who I want to win: I actually have zero preference. Despite my ranking, I think every candidate here is qualified and worthy of a win. I’ll still go with Pinocchio, because of how indescribable its insane makeup work is. It was worth the price of admission alone.
Who I think will win: Currently, Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom is doing extremely well in this category, and won’t be topped. I can see maybe a darkhorse win for Hilbilly Elegy or even surprise wins from Mank and Emma., but I still think Ma Rainey has this one.
Tune in tomorrow for our next Academy Award category! We’re reviewing every single nominee.
Andreas Babiolakis has a Masters degree in Film and Photography Preservation and Collections Management from Ryerson University, as well as a Bachelors degree in Cinema Studies from York University. His favourite times of year are the Criterion Collection flash sales and the annual Toronto International Film Festival.