Best Costume Design: Ranking Every Oscar Nominee
Written by Andreas Babiolakis
The second of the on-set artistry nominations, Best Costume Design, is really well rounded this year, but that is often the case in this category. I feel like there are many films — even terrible ones — that have well designed wardrobes in them that are worth recognizing. At least this year there are some cinematic juggernauts that deserve to be seen, as well as having their costumes recognized. Having said that, there is a clear winner here that I don’t think deserves to be any lower than first, and it’s the kind of film that I never imagined myself praising as much as I will in such a category. You’ll have to read (or just quickly scroll) to see what it is. Here are your nominees.
Biggest Snub: Spencer-Jacqueline Durran
Firstly, Spencer is yet another Pablo Larraín triumph that the Academy has mostly ignored, save for the one nomination for Kristen Stewart (even then, what was once a frontrunner, potential winner wound up being a nominee that snuck in at the tail end, likely because of the awards season disinterest in the auteur’s best works). Secondly, at least Jackie got some extra love, and Spencer could have had a similar fate. Its costumes, particularly Lady Diana’s iconic and endless wardrobe, deserve to be a part of the conversation.
5. West Side Story-Paul Tazewell
There’s no malice towards West Side Story here; I just had to place a nominee last. Considering the amount of outfits made for this production is an accomplishment alone, and the outfits themselves are really a part of the film’s spectacle (especially those flowing dressed). It actually feels really wrong to have the film last, but something has to be. I felt the other nominees had a little more going on with their outfits. Otherwise, I have no problem with West Side Story being here, and I think the film is a triumph on all artistic and technical fronts.
4. Nightmare Alley-Luis Sequeira
Nightmare Alley boasts the kinds of costumes that could have been fine based on the film’s premise alone, but I still feel like Luis Sequeira went the extra mile to ensure that each outfit tells its donner’s story. If anything, I almost sense more of who these characters are as people based on what they are wearing as opposed to the performers and makeup, especially in a cold noir film like this one (emotions and personality aren’t really a part of the equation). The outfits have wear, tear, and enough character to have entire histories caked on their surfaces, and they’re an absolute highlight of the film.
3. Cyrano-Massimo Cantini Parrini and Jacqueline Durran
As monotonous as Cyrano felt, its outfits always felt astounding to look at. We get taken back to the 1600s with what feels like the strongest examples of garments and attires, as if Cyrano is a showcasing of the best of what the era could offer. Even minor characters are blessed with elaborate and jaw dropping clothing. When the film tugs you along, it’s the costume design that keeps you even remotely interested.
2. Dune-Jacqueline West and Robert Morgan
Like any other tech and art category this year, Dune is a must-have nominee for Best Costume Design. No matter what class, area, or character you spot, their costumes tell such a fascinating story. The attention to detail in each and every little outfit is such an achievement. Rather than blathering on about what Dune does right, I’ll pose this question: could you imagine how detached from the film you would be if the outfits here were any less than near-perfect? Right. Exactly.
1. Cruella-Jenny Beavan
For me, there is no other winner here outside of Cruella. I didn’t expect the film to be a must-win (perhaps a potential nominee) until Cruella dips into its storyline of how its titular character gets embroiled in the fashion world of yesteryear London. Suddenly, Cruella became an exhibition of show-stopping outfit after show-stopping outfit. Typically when a film shows sequences with shocked or stunned passersby, we have to try and be there with them. In Cruella, I was as blown away as the characters by each and every wardrobe revelation and creation. No question: Cruella kills in this category. It actually boasts some of the best costumes I’ve seen in a film in a while. Even the general wardrobes are well done. Yep. This has to be my choice for the top nominee.
Who I want to win: Cruella. Next.
Who I think will win: I honestly think Cruella has the highest shot of winning, but you never know. Perhaps Dune or West Side Story could sneak in a win, or this could potentially be the sole win for Nightmare Alley. For now, I’m sticking with Cruella.
Tune in tomorrow for our next Academy Award category! We’re reviewing every single nominee on every weekday.
Andreas Babiolakis has a Masters degree in Film and Photography Preservation and Collections Management from Ryerson University, as well as a Bachelors degree in Cinema Studies from York University. His favourite times of year are the Criterion Collection flash sales and the annual Toronto International Film Festival.