Best Costume Design: Ranking Every Oscar Nominee
Written by Andreas Babiolakis
I always struggle with this category. I love great costume design, but I do think that the Academy rarely selects bad nominees. Then there’s the obvious: I am not an expert in fashion (if you’ve even seen my everyday attire, you’d be certain of this). To me some nominees for Best Costume Design look better than others because of what stories they tell (what do we learn about characters, settings, and storylines based on what is worn?). I also try to highlight which costumes just look more interesting to me. Otherwise, I find it tough to actually rank the usual hopefuls in this category, and 2023 is looking no different in this way. Nonetheless, I tried my best to place this batch of master designers in order. Here are your nominees.
Biggest Snub: Corsage-Monika Buttinger
Again, I have nothing against the five nominated films that did make it here, but I was for sure expecting Marie Kreutzer’s Corsage to wind up here because of how lavish and detailed the costumes in the film are. You’ll typically find period piece films thrive in this category as well, and Lord knows I’ve seen too may mediocre films that get buzz because of their costumes alone (so why not something worthwhile like Corsage?). I’m not heartbroken that it isn’t featured here. Just surprised.
5. Elvis-Catherine Martin
I had to place a film last, and sadly it was Elvis that came fifth. I think the costumes of Elvis Presley alone are to die for in this film, particularly because of how they bookmark each chapter of his life (and you can pinpoint each era of the rock ‘n roll legend just by what he is wearing). Eras and performances are captured nearly perfectly by the costumes in this film. I just think the other films have extra advantages, but Elvis deserves love in this category for sure.
4. Babylon-Mary Zophres
Babylon is pretty incredible in this department. You traverse through many years of Hollywood history and its many classes and spot what everyone is wearing (at times, there are hundreds of noteworthy outfits on screen in a single shot, particularly the ones that glide through ongoing productions with the crew members and many extras interacting). The extra flexes come during the moments of high life, where every star is competing with one another via their evening best, and Mary Zophres’ costumes solidify each character and their entire essences in what they wear; this is one way to bring the roaring 20s to life.
3. Everything Everywhere All at Once-Shirley Kurata
On one hand, I like the everyday-ness of what gets worn in the more normal moments of Everything Everywhere All at Once (even an IRS agent’s frumpy clothing feels like it is a part of that character). Take into account the many timelines where completely different wardrobes had to be crafted so they feel believable (mission accomplished, because every world that gets visited feels authentic to the story). Finally: the abstract. Once we reach the unorthodox costumes that are not of this universe, you know Shirley Kurata is just having the time of her life with these designs (and we are as well). If you don’t think Everything Everywhere All at Once thrives in this category, think again.
Cameron Geiser’s review of Everything Everywhere All at Once
2. Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris-Jenny Beavan
Of course, there’s always going to be one period piece film with lovely clothing that works its way in here, but the great Jenny Beavan’s costume designs in Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris absolutely deserve a nomination. The couture of Dior feel genuine, and the titular character’s fixation on the fashion house feels truly justifiable when you see these costume masterpieces come to life. You know Beavan slays when the entire climax of the film is dependant on the dream outfit Mrs. Harris strives to wear actually works as the focal point that brings the whole feature home. The fashion in Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris is jaw-dropping.
1. Black Panther: Wakanda Forever-Ruth Carter
Ruth Carter is a legend. Duh. Her work in Black Panther won an Academy Award because of her blending of African culture and science fiction concepts (as well as the vast array of winning examples she came up with). Well, she’s back and her work in Wakanda Forever may be even better. I feel like there are more designs (and even more daring ones to boot) that help make the titular, fictional nation its own character with its own rich history and heritage. Try to find one bad outfit in Wakanda Forever. You can’t. There are likely hundreds of different costumes here, and they all are magnificent in their own way. There are reasons why the Black Panther series does well during the awards season, and it’s because many cast and crew members don’t treat these films like your average Marvel films. Ruth Carter is one of those people, whose costume designing is out of this world.
My review of Black Panther: Wakanda Forever
Who I want to win: I do want Ruth Carter to win a second Academy Award because her entire filmography is worth much more than just one trophy.
Who I think will win: Right now, this looks like a close race between Black Panther: Wakanda Forever and Elvis. Elvis is due to pick up at least one win somewhere, and if it’s not for Austin Butler in an even-tighter Best Actor race, it could be here. However, don’t underestimate how much pull Wakanda Forever has been getting (need I remind you that Angela Bassett can flat out win for Best Supporting Actress?).
Tune in tomorrow for our next Academy Award category! We’re reviewing every single nominee on every weekday.
Andreas Babiolakis has a Masters degree in Film and Photography Preservation and Collections Management from Toronto Metropolitan University, as well as a Bachelors degree in Cinema Studies from York University. His favourite times of year are the Criterion Collection flash sales and the annual Toronto International Film Festival.